Resale Repercussions: How Thrift Trends Impact Sustainability and Accessibility
What do Depop resellers, Salvation Army stores, and vintage clothing lovers all have in common? Aside from reselling clothing, they share an appreciation for the value of those clothes. As fashion begins to pride itself more and more on individuality and expression, people are buying less off the racks and more from yard sales, Etsy, and other second-hand sellers. Thrifting, however, is not a new trend. For over ten years, buying second-hand has been encouraged for its sustainable side effects alongside its fashionable use. Unfortunately, over the past ten years, clothing in thrift shops has been increasingly price-gouged and is becoming inaccessible to its intended audience. In return, that same audience has been pivoting to unethical, fast-fashion websites such as Shien. Is it, then, possible that the overconsumption of second-hand clothing could contribute to environmental harm?
No, Depop and Poshmark girlies are not solely responsible for this uptick in thrift prices. They do, however, drive the trends that have led to the rise in prices at chain resale shops such Goodwill. Despite the excess of donated clothes, corporations are more focused on pricing as high as possible rather than eliminating waste by pricing fairly. On a technical level, there is no one company truly overconsuming used clothing. However, buying large quantities at the rising prices presented to consumers encourages socially unjust corporate behavior.
By allowing thrift shop prices to surge, we are not only diminishing accessibility, but creating more harm to the environment. With prices in resale shops becoming less affordable, those who don’t have the luxury of buying sustainable options have been limited to shopping with fast fashion retailers. In the digital era, we’re given access to hundreds of styles, many under $10. A notorious example of this form of online retail is Shein. Since this site gained popularity in 2015, its annual revenue has only been on the rise. Business of Apps places their increase in revenue from 2021 to 2022 at 44%. This is in spite of widespread criticism against the company’s treatment of workers and excessive production. This production, in turn, then ends up in landfills or into thrift shops at a higher cost. Yes, one must keep in mind the popularity of the site, but how much of that is due to need?
Correlation may not be causation, but shoppers have become more and more knowledgeable about who their money is supporting. With that being said, it is unlikely that educated shoppers with means will shop with fast fashion retailers. Of course, fingers can be pointed at micro-trends, general overconsumption, and simplicity of e-shopping, but with such a large array of second hand options for purchase, why else are we clinging to fast fashion?
The solution, then, is to take power back from corporate resellers. Before dropping off at your local goodwill, consider listing clothing online at fair prices, donating to nonprofit causes that give clothing directly to those in need, and participating in clothing exchanges. Second hand clothing is still the sustainable choice, but less so when your money is handed to corporations who care more about a highly profitable sale than mountains of waste.